Its rough as i had a limited time to do the job and was on my own doing it. That said it should help out some people who are planing on doing this.
Right first thing first if you are new to working on cars then i would recomend you get some help from someone with experience its also easier with two people.
Now i have done this on a ramp but it generally the same if on the floor just abit more awkward getting the box back on. also had access to windy guns etc. No access to air tools read the Hub nut section before starting !!!
So first things first get the jacked up as high as you can and use AXLE stands !!
Remove the wheels. Start by removing the 12mm bolts holding the brake pipes onto the shocks.
Then remove the 14mm bolts on the suspension forks. Then the 17mm nut and bolt at the bottom of the suspension fork going through the LCA and remove the fork.
Remove the split pin from the bottom ball joint castle nuts. undo the the bottom ball joint then undo the nuts 19mm iirc. (These sometimes wont come off in this case, use a jack to push the lower arm up this should stop the ball joint from spinning and allow you to remove the nut.) (No pic of this bit
) Now for the interesting bit getting the ball joints out of the lower arm these can be an absolute ball ache to do. Or you may be lucky and they will just pop out. There is a small lip on the lower arm just under the ball joint basically smash that with a big A$$ hammer if you cant get the out with a hammer, you'll have to resort to a ball joint breaker.
ball joint out
When you have gotten the ball joints out its time to remove the hub nuts either a 30 or 32mm nut. Before trying to remove the nut you will see that it has hammer into a flat part of the driveshaft. you need to knock this out. Hammer and a chisel/punch or a big flat blade screw driver. Then remove the nut.
Hub nut section
No impact gun
If you dont have an impact gun then before starting the job when the vehicle is on the ground you wil need to loosen your hub nuts. To do this put the handbrake on and the vehicle in gear. now you should be able to loosen the nuts using a socket and a large breaker bar. This is not easy and will require some real force or a large scaffold pipe to increase your leverage.
Before removing the driveshafts make sure you drain the gearbox oil. On the drivers side of the gearbox you will see a bolt that round with a 3/8 square in it. Just undo this with a 3/8 ratchet or better a 3/8 bar. Once the oil has all drained out put the drain bolt back in and nip it back up.
Now to remove the driveshafts, you need to tap out the hub end of the shaft from the wheel hub. To do this i used a rubber ended malet so as not to damage the driveshaft threads. Or if you screw the Hub nut back on half way you can then tap it out using hammer without risk of damaging the driveshaft threads. Then pull the hub towards you and tap the shaft the rest of the way out. This is easier with two people
To remove the shaft from the gearbox simply place a pry bar or large flat blade screw driver between the D/S and the gearbox and lever it out. repeat for the other side
Drive shafts out
now when it comes to removing the box it is tight, so to get a little bit more room undo the bolts holding drivers side front radius rod to the lower arm, allows you to pull it out of the way for abit more clearance.
Now you have all the chassis bits out of the way. Time to start on the engine bay.
First things first disconnect the battery terminals, 2x 10mm. Then undo the battery bracket again 2x 10mm nuts. and remove the battery and the plastic battery tray. The metal battery tray underneath is held on with 4x 12mm nuts 3 on the top and one underneath. which you can make out in pic below. You can probably get the gearbox out without removing this but more room with it out.
There are two wires on the front of the gearbox disconnect these. and pull the rest of the wires out of the clips holding them on the gearbox.
If you follow the negative battery wire it is bolted to the gearbox bracket for the clutch cable. Un bolt this 10mm. whilst there remove the clutch cable to do this simply unscrew nut on the cable pull the clutch lever up and pull the cable out of the lever then pull the cable up out of the bracket.
The main chunk of wiring coming from the fusebox is bolted to a bracket. undo this aswell.
Starter motor.
first remove the wires, the live under the rubber cap is bolted on with a 12mm nut. then just the wire to the starter motor solenoid pulls off.
Now remove the starter, held on with 2x 12 or 14mm bolts i forget which size.
removed
Speedo cable, to remove pull the rubber boot up the cable this will uncover a clip which holds the cable in the gearbox just pull the clip off and the cable will simply pull out. Make note of the way the clip was and how the cable was as it can be a pain to get the speedo cable back in properly. If you cant get at the cable you can remove the airbox which makes life easier.
Now remove the sh!t sheild at the bottom of the gearbox. 1x 12mm and one 14mm bolt also 2x 10mm nuts on the sump hold this on with these removed it should pull out.
on sump
Now i skipped a large piece out on the pics side only just noticed but written too much now so you'll just have to figure it out on your own, cant be spoon fed everything
Now your ready to start removing the bell housing bolts I didnt take pics of this as there all easy enough to see. remove all except one or two, but do crack them off aswell. you leave them just so the gearbox is still held in place whilst removing the mounts.
Engine mounts.
Firstly just a jack under the engine and jack it up so its just on the sump and take the weight of the engine/gearbox.
Now you need to remove the engine mounts.
The front engine mount;
17mm nut and bolt. However as you dropping the box down you may need you remove the mount from the box completely i did as it was a pain with it attached. two 14mm bolts hold it on the box yo can remove these witha spanner fairly easily and just pull the mount right out
Rear mount;
17mm bolt through the bush and bracket remove this first then remove the 3 17mm bolts holding the bracket to the gearbox.
gearbox mount.
To remove this you need to first undo the bolt going through the bush and the unbolt the bush from the bracket on the gearbox and remove the bracket from the box itself.
Now your ready to pull the gearbox off
Remove the two bell housing bolts you left in and lower the jack holding the engine up just abit so you have some more room to get the box off. To remove the box Do not prise it off with a bar !!! If it isnt coming off by hand you have missed something. Go around the gearbox and check everything.
To get it off basically rag it around up and down etc
Until the input shaft comes out then manouvre the box down onto the ground. Obvisoulsy no pics of this process as on my own Now congratulate yourself and have a well earned cuppa, maybe some biscuits if your lucky
back to work
Release bearing
Pretty simple to remove, undo the 12mm bolt in pic. and pull the clutch fork/lever out. Be sure to take note of how the bearing is attached to the spring and fork. especially how the spring goes back !! Take a pic is best bet.
So swap your release bearing over, before refitting, clean out the gearbox with some brake cleaner and put universal grease on the slide that the realase bearing slides on. Do not use copper grease.
The clutch assembly is bolted onto the flywheel using 6x 10mm multi splined bolts. Remove these and pull the old clutch off
Mmmm right down to the rivets
Align your new clutch, place it on the flywheel being sure you have it seated correctly in the locator pins on the flywheel !! Bolt it back on, Now TORQUE the bolts down. When bolting the clutch down be sure to do one bolt abit then do the one opposite similar to doing a rocker cover so that it is bolted down evenly. Also check and double check them !!
It only take a couple of minutes to check or a few hours to remove it again if you miss one
iirc the torque specification is 26Nm but i will double check this on autodata. Thats just off the top of my head did this quite a while ago.
When the clutch is torqued down, remove the alignment tool. And put it all back together again.
Im not writing all that up aswell, if you got it off you can get it back on
. Its just in reverse.
Dont forget to put gearbox oil back in, the fill bolt is a 17 or 19mm its the one with a washer. sits behind the driveshaft and at about the same level.
Hope this helps out some people
If i've missed something daft let me know and ill edit it
