How To - refurb wheels/polish lips *UPDATED*
How To - refurb wheels/polish lips *UPDATED*
Polishing rims...
Always do before spraying!!!
- Wet and dry sandpaper 240gr-2000gr or higher if you can
- Metal polish for aluminium
- Cotton polishing cloth(s) - for buffing
- Lambs wool/old fleece
Below is how to get up really bad rough lips. If yours are just dirty then use 800/1200 grit, then proceed with Autosol etc
1. Make sure there is no lacquer or paint on the rim - either by stripping the wheel of the paint, or sanding by hand.
2. For really bad corrosion, sand back to bare metal with 120-240grit, for good condition use 800grit.
3. Now start wet sanding... with 240 and working up to (400, 800) 1200.
4. Next get a scouring pad or wire-wool with some Autosol/metal polish on. Go round the rim a few times.
5. Buff off, and repeat if necessary.
6. Now more wet sanding with 1200, then 1500... and 2000 if you can get some..
7. Then use some metal polish on a piece of wool/fleece, and go round each rim a few times.
8. Buff off, repeat if necessary.
Job done! They should be almost mirror polish! For an even better finish you're going to need a power tool with a metal polishing buffer on - but I prefer by hand. You can just repeat the last buffing as above as many times as you can, or everytime you wash the car etc.
Before...
After sanding...
After buffing
After another buff and sprayed...
Spraying...
- Paint stripper (not always needed)
- Sand paper 120gr
- Wet and dry sandpaper 240gr-2000gr
- Metholated spirits or prep wipes
- Metal primer
- Colour paint
- Lacquer
- Polishing compound
- Pack of playing cards
You want a well vented and warm/hot room, smaller the better, a spray mask is essential, and a bucket of water (helps trap dust).
1. I rough up with 120-240grit sandpaper, and get rid of any scratches and chips in the process.
2. Clean the wheel with paint prep wipes or metholated spirits, to get rid of dust/dirt/grease.
3. Use a pack of playing cards to stick round the rim - saves a lot of masking and time, plus they're re-useable!
4. Then apply etch/red oxide/zinc or another corrosion preventing primer.
5. Give it at least 3 coats, I turn the wheel 90degrees each time to stay even, or in this case 45degrees as the spokes are set at 90. Go horozontal with the spray each time. Leave to dry for a few hours so its completely dry.
6. Wet sand with 800grit paper. Apply another layer of primer to make sure the whole wheel is covered and no imperfections, leave to dry for a few more hours. This is the most important layer, so needs to be done right!. If you are really anal and have extra time, lightly wet sand with 800grit paper to get an even smoother finish.
7. Apply colour, in the same way as primer, making sure the whole wheel is covered. It can be tricky as some wheels are a PITA to get paint in all the spokes. Do it gradually, and don't sand the colour!
8. Before last coat of the colour is dry, apply first coat of lacquer, same way as previous. Leave to dry for an hour at least. Apply at least 2 more coats of lacquer, repeating the previous method.
9. When all lacquer has been applied, let it dry for as long as you can, at least 48hrs to be sure.
And that's about it! Any questions - just ask!
Rim sanded...
Wheel sanded...
Cleaned, playing cards round rim...
Black applied...
Done!
BUT, these are done with hard waring satin finish, so no need to lacquer.
Always do before spraying!!!
- Wet and dry sandpaper 240gr-2000gr or higher if you can
- Metal polish for aluminium
- Cotton polishing cloth(s) - for buffing
- Lambs wool/old fleece
Below is how to get up really bad rough lips. If yours are just dirty then use 800/1200 grit, then proceed with Autosol etc
1. Make sure there is no lacquer or paint on the rim - either by stripping the wheel of the paint, or sanding by hand.
2. For really bad corrosion, sand back to bare metal with 120-240grit, for good condition use 800grit.
3. Now start wet sanding... with 240 and working up to (400, 800) 1200.
4. Next get a scouring pad or wire-wool with some Autosol/metal polish on. Go round the rim a few times.
5. Buff off, and repeat if necessary.
6. Now more wet sanding with 1200, then 1500... and 2000 if you can get some..
7. Then use some metal polish on a piece of wool/fleece, and go round each rim a few times.
8. Buff off, repeat if necessary.
Job done! They should be almost mirror polish! For an even better finish you're going to need a power tool with a metal polishing buffer on - but I prefer by hand. You can just repeat the last buffing as above as many times as you can, or everytime you wash the car etc.
Before...
After sanding...
After buffing
After another buff and sprayed...
Spraying...
- Paint stripper (not always needed)
- Sand paper 120gr
- Wet and dry sandpaper 240gr-2000gr
- Metholated spirits or prep wipes
- Metal primer
- Colour paint
- Lacquer
- Polishing compound
- Pack of playing cards
You want a well vented and warm/hot room, smaller the better, a spray mask is essential, and a bucket of water (helps trap dust).
1. I rough up with 120-240grit sandpaper, and get rid of any scratches and chips in the process.
2. Clean the wheel with paint prep wipes or metholated spirits, to get rid of dust/dirt/grease.
3. Use a pack of playing cards to stick round the rim - saves a lot of masking and time, plus they're re-useable!
4. Then apply etch/red oxide/zinc or another corrosion preventing primer.
5. Give it at least 3 coats, I turn the wheel 90degrees each time to stay even, or in this case 45degrees as the spokes are set at 90. Go horozontal with the spray each time. Leave to dry for a few hours so its completely dry.
6. Wet sand with 800grit paper. Apply another layer of primer to make sure the whole wheel is covered and no imperfections, leave to dry for a few more hours. This is the most important layer, so needs to be done right!. If you are really anal and have extra time, lightly wet sand with 800grit paper to get an even smoother finish.
7. Apply colour, in the same way as primer, making sure the whole wheel is covered. It can be tricky as some wheels are a PITA to get paint in all the spokes. Do it gradually, and don't sand the colour!
8. Before last coat of the colour is dry, apply first coat of lacquer, same way as previous. Leave to dry for an hour at least. Apply at least 2 more coats of lacquer, repeating the previous method.
9. When all lacquer has been applied, let it dry for as long as you can, at least 48hrs to be sure.
And that's about it! Any questions - just ask!
Rim sanded...
Wheel sanded...
Cleaned, playing cards round rim...
Black applied...
Done!
BUT, these are done with hard waring satin finish, so no need to lacquer.
Last edited by Marc_EE9 on Mon May 09, 2011 9:51 pm, edited 20 times in total.
Re: How to - refurb wheels/polish lips
Nice write up Marc - given me a few useful tips for the future.
One thing though when you start painting...
One thing though when you start painting...
I thought if it was bare metal you had to use etching primer? Or am I talking rubbishMarc_VT wrote:Then apply red oxide/zinc or another corrosion preventing primer.
Re: How to - refurb wheels/polish lips
No probs. I have a few How To's I'm composing at the moment.Dan wrote:Nice write up Marc - given me a few useful tips for the future.
One thing though when you start painting...
I thought if it was bare metal you had to use etching primer? Or am I talking rubbishMarc_VT wrote:Then apply red oxide/zinc or another corrosion preventing primer.
Etch primer is a 'bonding' primer, red oxide is mainly for steel and iron, but it's cheaper than etch, and does the same job pretty much. But if you want to splash out, go for it! Wheels only corrode if they are damaged and left for years where water gets in and gradually goes flakey etc. If they are done right, and protected well, they shouldn't flake/corrode, no mater what primer you use, but obviously the better paints you have, the longer they will last.
Now edited.
Last edited by Marc_EE9 on Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: How to - refurb wheels/polish lips
Sorry Marc your wrong there. Etch primer is for any bare metal, steel, aluminuim etc. Etch primer is designed to eat into the metal and 'grab' the metal so the paint sticks on. And IMO I really wouldn't use red oxide. Etch prime your bare alloy, sand back and then IMO go for a high build primer.Marc_VT wrote:Etch primer is for alluminium, oxide is for steel and iron, but it's cheaper than etch, and does the same job. But if you want to splash out, go for it!
Re: How to - refurb wheels/polish lips
Your right Dan.Dan wrote:I thought if it was bare metal you had to use etching primer? Or am I talking rubbishMarc_VT wrote:Then apply red oxide/zinc or another corrosion preventing primer.
Re: How to - refurb wheels/polish lips
NOW EDITED
Well this is how I've done 9 sets of wheels, and they are still all fine, and no flaking etc. So I don't care. Although I haven't used red oxide yet on a set of wheels.
I was half rightSowler wrote:Sorry Marc your wrong there. Etch primer is for any bare metal, steel, aluminuim etc. Etch primer is designed to eat into the metal and 'grab' the metal so the paint sticks on. And IMO I really wouldn't use red oxide. Etch prime your bare alloy, sand back and then IMO go for a high build primer.Marc_VT wrote:Etch primer is for alluminium, oxide is for steel and iron, but it's cheaper than etch, and does the same job. But if you want to splash out, go for it!
Well this is how I've done 9 sets of wheels, and they are still all fine, and no flaking etc. So I don't care. Although I haven't used red oxide yet on a set of wheels.
I didnt say not to use it, or not to put it on bare metalSowler wrote:Your right Dan.Dan wrote:I thought if it was bare metal you had to use etching primer? Or am I talking rubbishMarc_VT wrote:Then apply red oxide/zinc or another corrosion preventing primer.
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I don't feel it's necessary with wheels. Unless your really anal and can afford more colour - which is usually the most expensive out of the bunch (primer/lacquer)NickD wrote:Why do you say not to sand the colour? If you do it on bodywork then why not on wheels? I've only ever done very basic spray jobs on wheels so I'm interested to know.
if you get the primer layer right thers no real need, unless your in a very dusty environment where you may get a lot of imperfections
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Re: How To - refurb wheels/polish lips *UPDATED*
just finished spraying the first 2 of my alloys. was going really well until i was leaving them to set overnight and picked up the cloth i'd been using to buff them down after each layer and i got dust in the lacquer... its sorted now but christ is this a ballache of a job!
satisfying though
satisfying though
"How hard can it be?"
Re: How To - refurb wheels/polish lips *UPDATED*
That's the job. Just tried this on my 205 gti 1.9 and it turned the whole car around!
Ef9 90
2.2 vtec 96 prelude
Mr2 93
Dual carb civic 3 door 90
S6 avant 96
2.2 vtec 96 prelude
Mr2 93
Dual carb civic 3 door 90
S6 avant 96