Whats the best to do!

Post by **NickD** » Wed Nov 25, 2009 6:52 pm

IMHO you need to know what you are doing mechanically to run a turbo converted car, you also have to be considerate to the car, especially with regard to temperature. The nasp engines are pretty much fit and forget if they are built right in the first place.

If you really want to go turbo, search all around the net, read everything you can, and then make your decision on what parts to get based on that.

Post by **Daz** » Wed Nov 25, 2009 9:05 pm

You can build a B18c4 to take 300bhp with out the need for forged internals.

Just a stock block with B16 head, and the right sized turbo.

Its all in the tuning

HOWEVER

For those that have ever been in a 300bhp Honda civic it is plain crazy tbh.

a lowish blow B16 (circa 8-10psi) around 250-260bhp is farking quick.

you need to consider that for example a 300bhp civic, needs to put that power/torque down, so decent gearbox with LSD, suspension, brakes etc all need to be taken intpo consideratin when doubling the power out put of your car.

FWD cars and 200+ft/lbs of torque = major traction issues.

Daz

Post by **NickD** » Wed Nov 25, 2009 11:29 pm

To back up what Daz says, my B20 will spin the wheels in second in the dry, and in the wet it spins up all the way through second and into third, that's with very good suspension and tyres. And that's 'only' 200bhp. Even with a diff, and traction bar, Daz's B20 had similar traction issues - although it had a fair bit more power too.

A 200bhp Civic/Crx is ferking quick, a 250bhp one is brutal and the 300bhp one I have driven was insanely fast.

EE9 CVC · Post by **EE9 CVC** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 12:10 am

Traction is a problem, Even my 1.6 spins the wheels in second in the dry and up through 3rd gear in the wet, and thats to over 100mph. Even if you start from low revs in 3rd gear it will start to spin after crossover.

Post by **Tahir** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 12:27 am

200hp is enough for a dd in an EF but beleive me you will get bored of it very quick if you are anything like me. There is one solution to this though, go drive a stockish b16 civic/crx, then get back in yours and feel the difference.

I would take care of the chassis first (brakes, suspension, bushing etc).

Then get a gearbox/lsd that will be upto the task of whatever power you throw at it (S80/Quaife) and a top clutch and lighter flywheel.

Then start on the engine.

EE9 CVC · Post by **EE9 CVC** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 12:33 am

Tahir wrote:I would take care of the chassis first (brakes, suspension, bushing etc).

Then get a gearbox/lsd that will be upto the task of whatever power you throw at it (S80/Quaife) and a top clutch and lighter flywheel.

Then start on the engine.

Definitly the right way to go about it, but most people do it the wrong way.

davidT · Post by **davidT** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 10:07 am

well im doing all the car first. engine is deffinatly the last. Im going to run the standard b16 for a while once its back on the road so i can spend a bit more on the engine building it!

Post by **nominous** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 12:00 pm

NickD wrote:my B20 will spin the wheels in second in the dry, and in the wet it spins up all the way through second and into third, that's with very good suspension and tyres. And that's 'only' 200bhp.

I same the same issues with a simple build which didn't even have vtec in a stripped 1.5 crx with an ITR box.
The ITR box was just waaaaaay to lower geared to be useful.

Post by **Tahir** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 2:11 pm

Was that the crazy b20/b16 setup you and BillB put together?

CRXPAUL · Post by **CRXPAUL** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 2:32 pm

What would actually work out cheaper? A turbo b16 on stock internals all mapped etc. or one of Daz's B20's? I'm also considering both of these and they both appeal to me in different ways but I'm not sure which one would work out cheaper.

CRXPAUL · Post by **CRXPAUL** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 2:50 pm

That's what I was thinking. The only other concern I would have would be which one affected insurance costs the most. Also, if later down the line I got bored and wanted more power would it be cheaper to squeeze more from the turbo B16 or to upgrade the B20?

Oldskool J-EDM · Post by **Oldskool J-EDM** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 3:06 pm

Just get a DNR B20 as it will be reliable....I'm sure if you're a fiend and still want more power the B20 could be upgraded or turbo'd. Anyhow, an EP3 with 200bhp is no slouch....so I can only imagine how insane a properly setup B20 EF would be like.

CRXPAUL · Post by **CRXPAUL** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 3:41 pm

That's true! So the next question would be what exactly are the power figures for the absolute basic b20 that Daz offers with no extras? I thought I remember reading they were slightly lower than 200hp, I thought it was around 185?

CRXPAUL · Post by **CRXPAUL** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 3:42 pm

That's true! So the next question would be what exactly are the power figures for the absolute basic b20 that Daz offers with no extras? I thought I remember reading they were slightly lower than 200hp, I thought it was around 185?

Post by **nominous** » Thu Nov 26, 2009 4:45 pm

That's not a little under 200 really is it.

Chasing peak numbers is not what a B20 is about.