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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 5:51 pm 
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 6:54 pm 
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The next bit is hard, both physically and for me mentally. Remove the head lining , don't brake the rear view mirror like I did, off you do there is a simple fix, You need to remove the sunroof surround, gutter etc, you could grind it out and cover your car in sparks, followed by rust spots, or cut out with a nibbler, which I don't have or use a chisel, this is hard work and a bit up setting hammering the hell out your roof area, there are some bits you will need to drill some spot welds inside but eventually it comes out, get rid of all tubes etc, cut the interior mirror bracket off the sunroof surround and fix carefully to the correct location inside, this will help keep the new headlining in place.
Once that is done, and all edges folded down you will need to lightly ruogh up the old roof paint , then clean the old roof perfectly,then I went over it with methylated spirit, not white spirit, and clean the underside of the new roof.
Next your sealant, I recommend to get a few different sorts and do some samples, I did four and left them a few hours, then checked which was the best, after tiger seal, pure flex, something from euro parts and something else , I went with the one from euro parts as it seemed the quickest setting by far.
I recommend you get a load of samples and make your own mind up.
So putting on the sealant, Do Not Cover the whole roof, if it can't get air to it it will take literally years to go off, so same bead around the edge 15 -20 wide max, most dry 3-4 mm per 24 hours, then. Lines of the sealant running like sun Ray's from the old sunroof opening, try not to block any areas off as this will slow down setting.
Then carefully lift the roof on with the glass lifters, best have two of you, one to lift it on one to guide it in, don't want to make a mess, then push down firmly, clean up any excess with in my case methylated spirits, but you should use what ever your sealant recommends, you can then refit the ariel, which helps keep that side in place, the back two plastic sections slide onto the new studs, and screw to the back of the old hinge, just need to keep an eye on the front near side, you might have to tape it down while it sets.
One worry we had while putting the glass lifters on the new paint was would it mark it, well yes in did leave slight rings , these polished out, doing it without glass lifters is a total no no.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 6:56 pm 
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 7:02 pm 
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 7:05 pm 
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Ideally leave out the replacement headlining as long as you can, so the sealant can dry
Finally I would say this worked for me, but easily could have fucked up any any stage, so if your not sure of your abilities , don't try it.
I have driven 600 hundred miles since with no problems so far.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 7:10 pm 
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 7:20 pm 
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So here we have my D14 twin carbs that using the Cheddas Autos adaptor plate will be replacing my single carb, first job is to weld up the hole, then redrill holes in the correct location, my friend welds Aluminium , once done grind off accurately or get some to mill it flat, next I'm going to clamp them together , the inlet manifold and the adaptor plate, lining up the ports, the I have some hollow m8 threaded bar, screw it in then drill through the center, giving perfect location, then drill with correct drill size,
I have gone a step or two further and polished the carb, and started on the inlet manifold, first grinding off any unused sensor mounts, also I have changed from bolts to studs so it will be easier to mount the manifold on the back of the engine later.
That's as far as I have got with that, hopeful finish it this weekend.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 7:25 pm 
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 7:29 pm 
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Here's my recently acquired dash mat. But also the repaired rear view mirror bracket which I broke off while in a hurry to remove it, the arm is Ali , but the backing plate plastic, which broke when I tried to remove it, so I just held it in place drilled from the back, counter sunk the front so the new slightly longer bolts sat in flush, quite happy with how it turned out.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 10:07 pm 
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Have finished polishing off my inlet manifold , got rid of all the unnecessary sensor mounts, holes have been welded up and re drilled , and the head side has been skimmed, hopefully I will get this fitted this weekend.


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2016 9:58 pm 
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So top picture is of the engine as it was.
Then the old single carb out,
A empty hole


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2016 10:08 pm 
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Last edited by big red one on Tue May 03, 2016 10:54 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2016 10:38 pm 
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So here we have me removing the old gasket, going over the ports with the 2000 grit, once cleaned up fitted the new gasket , then the cheddas adaptor plate, this all went on easily enough, along with the red gasket, then the cleaned up inlet manifold, followed by the Carbs, all straight forward enough.
Next job is the carb support bracket, this will not support the carbs as it is, if your not using the 4g air filter box, you will still need the support bracket in some form as this helps prolong the life of the the plastic seals.
The 4g support bracket is too wide and will not fit next to the oil filter, so I welded an extra bit on top of the existing 3 g bracket , will tidy it up soon.
Next small job was the choke cable, it's too tight to get round so I had to move it towards the bulk head, luckily I had a old carb I could cut a bit off and reverse it and fix.
The throttle cable just goes straight in.
Fuel line just gets shortened and re fixed.
Electrical wise you will now have two fuel cut off valve, just wire them together then to there old connection.
Air vac tubes, the two coming off the blue PT valve we have blanked off, and I have since removed it totally and blanked it off.
The two vac pipe going to the old round air filter box now go to the new square 4g air filter box in the same places
Another problem is the breather from the top middle of the new carb to the black box lower down the rear of the engine, the old one has small connection, can't remember the size, the new one large , I have ordered a 8-10mm adaptor.
Then I turned the key and it stared first time, much better than before.
Next putting on the air box !


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2016 11:02 pm 
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Once the air filter box was fitted the bonnet only just shut, and so the next day I lowered it 16mm , I done this by adapting the back plate of the air box to lower it, bit of a nightmare really, and due the fact that the bulk head and the back off the carbs are not parralled , so as you lower it, it gets tighter.
Once that was done, I did the last job for the weekend, change the rocker cover over


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2016 11:06 pm 
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