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PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2010 12:35 am 
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Location: kendal cumbria
So i used the standard gl hubs with 262mm discs from my local auto factors and 4th gen prelude vti calipers which can also be found on honda crv's and the accord coupe they are the biggest single pot calipers honda used on any of there cars.
So first things first was to remove the standard brakes.
It recuired very little modification,the disc sits a little too far back so i used a 5mm wheel spacer to bring it forward a little although 3mm would probably be better. So that just sits between the disc and hub.
Some peaople grind down the caliper bracket to get it to fit properly but the spacer is a much more simple option, they can be found on ebay for a couple of quid.
Then next job was too bolt the prelude carrier up to the hub, which wasn't a problem at all as the holes lined up perfectly.
Then put the pads into the carriers, there is very little clearance between the bottom of the pad and the disc so i ground a little bit of metal off the pad as it rubbed a little when braking hard, you will be able to see what i mean when you put it together. I got my friend to hold the pad while i ground it down with the angle grinder but its probably alot safer to use a file,bench grinder or stick the pad in a vice if you have one.
Once thats done done you can bolt the caliper to the carrier, and hook the brake line back up. The standard dx/gl brake lines fit no problem.
I also used the 15/16 " master cylinder and the servo from the prelude, the servo is a tight fit but it does go in if you remove the fuse box and all the bolt holes line up perfectly. Its worth doing a full fluid change while you have it all off aswell, mine was a bit of a bitch to bleed but i got there in the end.
Once youve done all that your good to go, the difference over the original brakes is absolutely imense.
This is the difference in the gl discs and the 262mm
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Difference in the pads and calipers.
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The final product
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 11:36 am 
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Nice work mate :top:

On my list of things to do now :)

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 11:38 pm 
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cheers for this, once brakes are done in this will be getting done... one question my car has had a new brake master cylinder fitted not so long ago have reciepts for £300 :D you think it will be good enouhg or wouldi still need to use the prelude master?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 11:44 pm 
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You would be best using the prelude servo to get the full potential of the brakes, it can all be picked up very cheap second hand, the whole conversion cost me £60 all together and that was with a set of brand new discs

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 1:45 pm 
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Wow that is cheap been looking for caliper sbut have only come across ones on egay for bout £50 each. Any suggestions where else I could try, loca scrappys been done!

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 6:06 pm 
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Search for breaking prelude on ebay and contact them. Also the first generation crv's are the same.
Also maybe try the prelude forums and see if theres any breaking on there

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 9:40 am 
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Still think it's well worth getting your calipers modified and doing it properly.
It means the wheels can still be hub centric rather than the studs taking the load (which they are not inteded to do).
I found a local machining company to do mine, for free admittedly, but it was only going to be about 30quid for the pleasure.
He was just bored of his normal work and it was a Friday :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 10:17 am 
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Dave what exactly had to be done to the caliper so spacers are not needed? And i take it the how to above has no changes when starting with 16v hubs?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 11:30 am 
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I'd have to double check exactly how much I took off, I think it was around 3.7mm to make it central to the disc.
I've seen it done with a flat milling of the whole of the carrier body, however the guy who did mine found a face mill bit and so the area of the bolt hole in the carrier has a large, approx 30mm diameter recess cut into it. This clears the hub stub mount to the caliper so it'll bolt up ok. I had to grind the central bar of the carrier a little too so it'll clear the part of the hub where the bearing presses into.

It seems the passenger side caliper isn't not exactly straight. He went a little off for some reason on it, so my pad is going to wear at a slight angle on that side. Not overly bothered tho, the milling for free so I guess he learnt as he went on about it :)

Been a while since I had them done, I figure I should be able to get another set done if he's still working there. I have spare sets of calipers to do them with.

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I'll take them back off and inspect everything ina week or so to see how they are wearing and if anything is contacting which shouldn't be.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 4:13 pm 
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are the discs for a prelude or civic vt?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 11:24 am 
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civic EK VTi
It's what Halfords list (trade card cheapness) but they are the same as the EE9 civic VT or indeed CRX VT which I've fitted them to in the past.
The pads came with the calipers. I figured I'd just reuse them since they have a lot of meat on them.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:23 pm 
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Could you just use the calipers and pads and disc off the VT 4th gens for this swap?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 10:08 pm 
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No. You'd need the hubs too.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 8:28 pm 
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I have vti ek full front hub set up. Tried fitting the full hub assembly to my JDM ef1 today and the drives were too small for the hubs. Going to try fitting the 262mm discs and calipers to the standard hubs. Usefull thread im going to give this a shot

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 11:55 pm 
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I knew it was here Benny

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