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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 9:03 pm 
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Location: Roscommon, Ireland
So i just done this yesterday evening so its still fresh in my mind as and as i have forgotten to when doing loads of other stuff i took photos this time :D

So what you'll need:
Trolley jack
Axle Stands
Decent socket set
10 and 12 mil spanners
brake fluid
rags

Firstly, jack up the back of the car as high as ya can (make sure its in 1st gear :lol: ) and rest it on axle stands, put blocks in front of the front wheels just to be sure!! remove rear wheels!
Image

disconnect handbrake cables at the handbrake! 12mil spanner
Image

now ya need to remove them from the car, to do this ya gotta go under :D i let the backbox drop down to give me the room to work behind the exhaust, theres a heatshield blocking your path you'll need to remove (10mil socket, 4 bolts)
Image

once thats out of the way you'll see where the lines run through the floor
held in place by a plate with 3 10mil bolts
Image

once this is disconnected, you need to pull the drivers side line out of it so ya can get them out from behind the fuel tank, the lines are bolted to the body in 4 places, 2 on each line, (12mil spanner)
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Image
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then, disconnect brake lines under the arch, watch for any fluid leaking, i found more came out of the line on the rta than outta the hardline, but it did drip steadily out of the hardline after that!! you'll need a 10mil spanner and something like a heavy screwdriver to tap the spanner with to loosen the nut, being Very careful the spanner doesn't slip or it'll round the nut, very easily done on these little buggers!! once the nut is loosened pull out the clip under neath it, i used the open end of a spanner to lever it out, hook the spanner behind the lip and push the spanner back against the line to push the clip out!
Image
Image

Once ya have all that done then ya can start on removing the actual arms themselves, ya can either remove the arm and all support arms or ya can leave the lca (just remove the bolt holding it to the back of the hub) and shock in place, 2nd method requires removal of 5 bolts, one in the toe arm (14mil), 2 in the main rta bushing (17mil) and 2 in the upper control arm (14mil), before removing the toe arm bolt i marked its positioning on the body by scratching around the back of it to mark its position prior to removal!
the image shows the result of the 1st method!!
Image

then its the same for the other side and reverse of removal to install the new RTA's!! Then fill and bleed the brakes, thats another how to i afraid :lol:


Job Done

Tips: when disconnecting the brake line from the hard line be careful the spanner doesnt slip, as i said earlier i tapped the handle of the spanner with the rubber handle of an adjustable spanner lightly to carck it free!

Also if ya have a spare pair of clear swimming goggles lying around keep them to hand for the work underneath the car as a lot of dust/dirt/S*!t lands down into your eyes :D

any questions don't hesitate to ask! hopefully someone find this useful!!


Have Fun!!! :D

Tommy

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 11:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 27, 2004 9:59 pm
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Location: Ipswich Suffolk
Great write up, even I understood it! Moved to How To Guides cheers

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 11:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 2:38 pm
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Nice write up bud some good pics aswell :)

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 06, 2010 5:30 pm 
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Hope it helps someone!!

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 12:38 pm 
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nice one tommy, brake pipe spanner is the job for the lines. can be bought handy at most autofactors i think sealey / taskmaster do good ones cheap

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 11:47 am 
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Molegrips often help quite a bit too.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 5:17 pm 
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sounds good might have to try this? lovely old job :)

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 2:53 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2010 9:18 pm
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Location: Wadebridge, Cornwall
Just to clear couple things up in my head cos i'm a bit slow today :lol:

To do this swap i'd need the whole RTA setup and handbrake cables from a 16i-16 or VT 4g?

Sam


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 2:58 pm 
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rear arms with disks off any 4g would do, obviously VT are a bit bigger, think DA rear arms would do it either but not 100% sure of that so maybe someone else could clear it up!!

Rear arms with disks and calipers
brake lines to suit
handbrake cables to suit

All control arms should be the same bar ef9/da6 lower control arms which are eye type as opposed to fork type!

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2010 9:18 pm
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Sweet, got a mate possibly breaking a VT so will knock him up for the RTA setup, brake lines and handbrake cables, good write up :)


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:05 pm 
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Cheers, good luck with the swap, it may also be worth your while getting the brake booster and master cylinder if your doing this conversion on a GL!!

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:21 pm 
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Yeah think i may change the master cylinder and servo and do the 262mm front disc conversion following the other how-to on here :)


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 5:25 pm 
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hey buddy,

i want to convert my rear drum to discs as well. can you guide me to what size discs i need and what arms i will need. i know where i can find these as long as i know what i am looking for.

Thanks

Tesh


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:31 pm 
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hi what hubs did you use and from what year and what size?


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