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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 1:00 am 
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How To - Battery Relocation!

This is quite simple, shouldnt take more than an hour!

First, you will need some decent sized battery cable, 40mm2 is a good choice, youll need the thickness in the wire to keep up the Turning RPM's, specially on cold mornings!

You will need 4m of wire if you are putting it in the boot, and an extra 0.5 or so for a nice earth cable.

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I Located my battery on the passenger side of the spare wheel well Although some people mounted it on the drivers side! There is more of a Flat surface on the drivers that the passenger side, as the passenger side compensates for the bit in the wheel well for the jack/tools etc.

I used the original tie down bar, for this, i drilled 2 holes in the floor, exactly 10" apart (Measurement took from the Original battery tray)

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The battery is quite secure with this tie down bar! unexpected tbh, but it is quite sturdy!

Now, you need to attach some battery terminals on the ends of the cables, i used the terminals i currently had (althought bought some new SHINEY ONES!! :shock: ) But 1 terminal on both wires, i chose to clamp the the wire in the terminals using the screws on the terminal.

I found attaching the terminals to the cable was an issue! due to the size of the cable, i couldnt find any terminals big enough to fit the wire in, in the end, i used some terminals made for 4guage wire, crimped them over half of the cable, then using a blowtorch and some solder, i soldered the cable to the terminal! it worked quite well!

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You now need to attach the ring end of the main, positive wire to the terminal on the starter motor! you will also need to extend the wire from the fusebox to the same terminal!

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You will then need to feed it into the cabin! i cut a small slit into the rubber on the passenger side of the car, which is just above the ECU Plate on the inside of the car

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Along the passenger side of the car, next to the seat were the fuel lines go, there are clips there that perfectly house 40mm2 cable!, i also chose to cable tie it down, so it was secure!

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I Then fed the cable round the filler next, and on the inner side of the arch, i cable tired the cable to holes along the arch, so it didnt rub on the arch, and was secure! I then brung the cable around, and out behind the light!

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Remember! Add a few extra earth cables in the engine bay to compensate the distance from the battery to the engine!

I Added 3 extra cables, made out of 8gauge wire.

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Total cost! Wire cost me £30, i used 4.5 meters of Red (bit to long, as stated above, 4m would be "enough") and 0.5m of black for a nice solid earth!

Terminals cost me a couple of quid, so did other terminals i used.

Save some money using the original tie down bar! but a Vented battery box, would be suited!

Wiring Diagram

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Cheers!

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1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Supercharged, VTEC Swapped Track Toy.
1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Lifted Daily Beater.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 7:57 pm 
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Added a diagram!

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1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Supercharged, VTEC Swapped Track Toy.
1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Lifted Daily Beater.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 1:09 pm 
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nice how to i was wondering how you do this aswell. like the diagram :D


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 1:23 pm 
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indeed! when i was researching, there wasnt much in the way of "Strait to the point" battery relocation!

so i made my own!

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1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Supercharged, VTEC Swapped Track Toy.
1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Lifted Daily Beater.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 2:00 pm 
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haha lol might try this where would you recommend getting battery wire from?


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 4:19 pm 
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0131343998

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1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Supercharged, VTEC Swapped Track Toy.
1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Lifted Daily Beater.


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 Post subject: Fuse?
PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 4:45 pm 
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nice write up! cheers, jus wondering if ya could jus put a fuse between the battery ant the starter an cut out the one in the fusebox??


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 4:51 pm 
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well ive had no problems, yet!

But ive been looking at this Trip Fuse on ebay, as used in high power audio setups, its rated for 100amps, and is resettable with the push of a button, its also only £7.

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1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Supercharged, VTEC Swapped Track Toy.
1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Lifted Daily Beater.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 6:59 pm 
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sweet :D cheers!!


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 3:38 pm 
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cheers for the link gizmo


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 8:03 pm 
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could you not run the wires underneath somehow?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 9:39 pm 
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you could, but you risk damaging the cable, either by scraping, bottoming out etc.

Secondly is water, Inside the car is MUCH safer and recommended

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1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Supercharged, VTEC Swapped Track Toy.
1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Lifted Daily Beater.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 8:41 pm 
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really good and detailed write up, looks easy too.
on another note, what coilovers you running gizmo?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 9:22 pm 
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Looks good Gizmo, good to post a how to for people too.

Gotta say though, all looks a bit messy/busy. Can be alot tidier, my apologies if you hadnt finished lol.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 11:10 pm 
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ive moved the cable to the boot so its more hidden/ tidy.

all works good, no issues, cranks nicely!

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1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Lifted Daily Beater.


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