4GUK

Good work man!!!

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I still have about an inch of forward castor to gain. So once it goes to for a geo setup il have it looked at and if needed adjusted.

A few issues with the car as expected, had a flapping/knocking sound coming from timing belt side. Tuned out the covers I had on there were a no good and the belt was a bit loose. So off came the covers, re timed engine and tightened tensioner. Will need some more covers on there.

Also, I've been having a few issues with the fueling system. Considering half of it is custom. I might have a leak somewhere. As it's running 52psi on 240's and the afr on idle are way too lean.

The Hondata S300 V3 has been fitted, it's a great bit of kit and I've uploaded a very popular B20vtec base map from Hondata forum.

Proper updates soon.

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2010 Audi A3 1.6TDi Sport

you shouldn't need to "Tighten the Tensioner" if you understand how to correctly install a timing belt

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1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Supercharged, VTEC Swapped Track Toy.
1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Lifted Daily Beater.

I did and it worked.

But hey, enlighten me on "how to correctly install a timing belt".

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2010 Audi A3 1.6TDi Sport

you should never have to manually adjust the tensioner. it does it automatically.

You fully load the spring, and tighten the bolt to secure it, install belt and undo the bolt, the tensioner will then spring into place, rotate engine 4 times and tighten the bolt, No need to manually put any tension on the belt.

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1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Supercharged, VTEC Swapped Track Toy.
1988 RT4WD Shuttle - Lifted Daily Beater.

Right. A few ups and downs unfortunately.

So I managed to get a nice din holder to put the gauges in.



My drivers side window has always been a bit dodgy, after taking out the regulator, I relized it was time for a new one. Perfectionist came to the rescue with a pair from a 20k miler 4G, fitted to the car and now window works like brand new



I dug out a brand new 12tune carbon fibre bonnet that i've had since I bought the other one I had on this car (yes I bought 2, long story!)



Bought in....







Topped up with coolant



Fitted new rocker cover gasket, O rings, solenoid gasket and a new set of Magnecore KV85's.



...and some pre gapped BCPR7ES plugs.



Then I double checked everything and went ahead and fired the car up on obd0 with the b18 map I was running the ITR engine on. Turned over motor with no ignition to build up oil pressure. Fired up first click. Done with initial 20 min break in (2 ten minute sessions). It's LOUD, very LOUD. The recorder cant quite make out the noise.

Small videos of when we fired it up, ignore the jump leads in the bay, it was just some emergency earthing and it worked a treat.

B20 EF9 first start up 1
B20 EF9 first start up 2

Oil and filter was then changed to some more Millers running in oil.

Also done a compression test soon after. 260, 250, 270, 260. Everything good there for a 12:1'ish engine. This was with the car having done zero miles on the road.

This was cylinder 3...



Time to convert to obd1. Fitted my new Hondata S300 V3 with the Boomslang obd0-1 conversion harness. Fitted obd2 single plug distributor with Rywire obd0-2 dizzy harness. Wired up and soldered 4 wire o2 sensor. Uploaded B20vtec base tune from Hondata website etc. Checked on SManager, no fault codes

Hondata S300 V3. Bluetooth capability, SDASH capability (Android app) etc





Bled the coolant system, this can be a proper pain in the A$$. Front end jacked up so helped get all the air out the system.



Raised the suspension a bit to get my manifold some ground clearance. Also adjusted front camber arms and tie rods. It will be getting done properly at a vehicle geometry centre but this was for the time being.

Then I took it for a drive up and down the road outside my mates garage. Immediately realized I had a few issues. Firstly, the car was smoking a bit, I took this with a pinch of salt as I thought it's a new engine and rings wont have sealed properly hence the smoking, also the Millers running in oil is very thin so its probably getting past. More about this in a bit.

Secondly, there was a serious problem with the steering, it was EXTREMELY light and was making funny knocking noises when turning left or right. I had just had my PAS rack reconditioned. It seems they've gone wrong somewhere as there was also A LOT of play in the steering wheel. Checked the TRE's, inner rack arms, U joint etc and all seemed fine.

Looked everywhere for a SiR PAS rack but had no joy so had to fit a manual rack and subframe off a VT. I will eventually fit the PAS setup again when I find a mint rack but i'm in no rush now, I just want to drive the car.

Il be in touch with ACS about the steering rack, but I couldn't wait so it all came off...



Managed to get hold of a rather grubby VT sub frame with rack etc....



Stripped it all down, sent the subframe off for shot blasting and powder coating. Got it back from the powder coaters all fresh.



Painted the rack satin black, bought new TRE's, rack end boots, rack end bush, inner rack arm locking washers etc...



Put it all together with the ARB and Energy bushes from my SiR subframe and the poly rear mount.



And fitted. Got to say the engine bay does look a lot less cluttered without all the PAS stuff in there. Not driven it yet but I hope it's sorted the steering issues.




Now just yesterday I took off my manifold because I had to change the sump gasket when I discovered this.....



Cylinder 1 exhaust port full of oil. It explained the smoking. So close to having it on the road, Daz had even sent me a proper base tune to drive it on that same morning.

Looking closer into the port, you could see small runs on the valve stem coming down from the guide. I have changed every single thing on the engine almost apart from the FCUKING VALVE GUIDES. So typical.

Anyways, 45 mins later.......





Do you notice something really odd, I do. Cylinder one, the one with the oil in the exhaust port, the piston and combustion chamber is spanking clean vs the rest of them. Something to ask the guys at the machine shop about tomorrow.






So tomorrow in the morning im going back to W.Drake with this head. Going to have them confirm it's definitely the guides, i've taken out 2 sets of valve springs and yes they do wiggle a bit in the guide so i'm 99 per cent sure it's the guides that are leaking the oil.

I have a spare Cometic 84.5mm HG, handy! I've ordered a new set of OEM stem seals from Japserviceparts and i'l be ordering some Supertech bronze valve guides off ebay in the morning after i've been to the machine shop. All goes well, head should be back on the car beginning of next week.

We'll end on a nice note so....

Somewhere in the middle of all that I gave the car it's first wash in 4 years. It came out pretty well. Definitely needs a good machine polish though.

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2010 Audi A3 1.6TDi Sport

Looks so nice this BEAST

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Sick Civic VT OfTeN LiCkEd NeVeR bEaTeN

Good progress mate shame about the minor issues...

My old b16 (now in my lads track car) had a similar issue.. we fitted a fresh recon/rebuilt ITR head to it did around 500 road miles before it came off the road.. to be swapped into another shell.. had notcied abit of smoke but put this down to rings as the bottom end was an original SiR 90k item, on removing the exhaust I found the same thing as you.. alot of oil in no1 exhaust port... we swapped the engine anyway and put it back together to compression check, all was well... so he just ran it like that, smoked for the 1st week doing road miles, then tailed off, 1st trackday used 2 litres of oil... ever since then it uses virually none... even on track! So I guess something just needed to bed in!?

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TEAM440

http://1977ernie.tumblr.com

This is gorgeous, and one of the longest builds I can remember!

Car looks really great Tahir, and your new exhaust looks so much better than your last setup, much neater, it actually looks like it was meant to be like that.

Bad luck with the engine, you know I know how that feels, my valves were also the problem after I fitted the new head after the first one spat the guide. But my current engine is mint so its all good, can't wait to drive it again and get to mapping it, which I will probably do myself if I have enough time what with the RB26 going into the Datsun when I'm home next also.


You'll get there in the end, she's just punishing you for taking so long with the build.

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EE9 - 160HP B16A1 >> 196HP B16B >> 243HP B20 >> 250HP?? B20>>

260Z Hardcore Project Car

So true Ian.

Took the head to the machine shop today and they said the guides seem fine but they will check them out properly tomorrow.

He told me to check the rings, to see if they were the right way round and if any of them might be cracked.

So I whipped out the piston and took that to them also. Again he said it looks fine but they will inspect it properly tomorrow.

Just going to wait on the phone call from them tomorrow now and see whether I need new guides or if it's something else.

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2010 Audi A3 1.6TDi Sport

Fingers crossed for you that its something simple, like a valve guide. It is only 1 cylinder at least.

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EE9 - 160HP B16A1 >> 196HP B16B >> 243HP B20 >> 250HP?? B20>>

260Z Hardcore Project Car

did you use genuine valve stem seals?

odd because i just re-built my cylinder head with aftermarket ones, same cylinder is in same condition.... not as bad as that mind.

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White ED7 - sold
Black EE9 - Rust can
Red EC9 - Rust can
Black ED7 - Written off
Superior blue ED2 - Sold
Black CRX EF6 Glassroof - in the making

Ah i know what the problem is and lucky for you i can fix it.

Just let me borrow it for a week once it's on the road and i'll give it back fixed

HTH

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A person who wants everything to be perfect and demands the highest standards possible.

Friends call me Nas

Nas

Actually the machine shop think the oil coming from the bottom end, I took the head off and cylinder one piston soaked in oil.

I've taken the engine back out, removed piston number one and number four to compare, I have some very feint scoring on the bores where the piston skirt has been rubbing.

It's going to the machine shop tomorrow!!!!!!

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2010 Audi A3 1.6TDi Sport