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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 2:08 pm 
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Location: The countryside in the midlands
nominous wrote:
Did the Hickman head have a stamp on it anywhere with initials DHR ??


I dont remember seeing any. It came from his workshop it was on the return shipping invoice.. He claimed to be moving workshops at the time, and all the rest of it. he really messed me about. I didnt think I was ever going to get anything for my money tbh. wayne and another lad actually flew over to see him just before I paid out for the head, they said he seemed weird and decided not to get him to do anything. I should've listened.. He eventually send this head which was clearly just to get me to leave him alone as it had been a year and I was going pretty mental at that point, he claimed he handnt sent it as I hadnt paid postage which wasnt the case.. he'd been saying he hadnt finished it and 100 other excuses & never quoted me for shipping. I had previously just paid for the head & work to be done so I paid shipping on it. & then still had to raise a paypal dispute for the shipping money as it didnt turnup anywhere near the time he said it would.. after giving me tracking numbers that didnt exist etc. he finally sent it after paypal freezed his account over the shipping money... bit of a case of wish I'd never! had my pants pulled down and messed about for a year to be sent what essentially was prob a 2nd he had sitting around with some old bits shoved in it. after I took the chance paid around 1k out straight in good faith as I was expecting the kind of workmanship claimed. Anyway I think I'd rather just forget that whole saga cant do much about it now best to use someone local that you can visit and talk to about what you want to achieve with work like that I've learned. Then double check what they do with another company then check that with a mate in engineering or your own kit !!
This is now what I do. Its terrible but have caught a company that is an 'engine builders' in leicester telling me wrong measurements for my crank tunnel on my new build.. I cant seem to trust anyone to do a job properly.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 3:17 pm 
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It had cost around 100 quid to put the battery in the boot around a year ago, after doing much work on VAG's and seeing their builds I decided that was a waste of money & weight and it was making shopping really difficult I had already lost a bag of cat litter to sharbits around the battery and some milk.... I went for a lightweight cheap version of the yardley redtops its actually a mobility scooter battery ebay 30quid. but its pratically a race battery same dimensions etc. had look made a little box inthe bay out of the way of everything welded it in , I wouldve liked to have made this lighter tbh . just after I'd done this nick from rtech next door offers me his ally battery holder from his redtop as hes going back to a stock battery?!?! grr anyway sprayed plenty of wax oil in the chasis leg after welding where I couldnt reach with primer.
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It was all, cleaned up,seemed up, tarted up all the welds acid etched to death. steering rack back. subframes back and powder coated. welded up a couple of holes on the bulkhead that wont be used.. not smoothing the bay it takes too long , costs more and weighs the car down with filler/stopper..
It was blasted with hi build primer and the weather was great so it got shoved back out side for rubbing down.. urrrg a full day of it with several ppl helping... 1 rub down was certianly all it was going to get as there was talk of a 2nd hi build coat... errm not a chance.. 1 is enough! bay's are horrible to rub down.

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Fitted subframes etc back in to roll it into the unit and ramp for painting.. dedcided that rich's bro had been a painter at main dealer since he was 16 would be able to paint it in the unit. it was going to be too expensive to take to the oven etc, we cleaned the place out 3 times that week on the run up had the doors down I soaked the floor with water and had the heater on a sat morning keith came down and painted it.. went really well didnt get hardly anything drop into it certianly cant tell with it beign the bay and not a big flat bonnet etc.. happy days. the green is lambo green, I got some maskign stickers made up for some lovley decals since I see alot of JDM EF9 stuff inthe states thought I'd represent the original EDM scene and have the EE9 decal painted in. The purple is dodge charge 'plum crazy' metallic I wanted a pearl but this looks really nice and was very cheap! Final few blasts and panel wipe good to go...
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Fitted it back up on its wheels and back outside Everyone involved well happy with the result :) awaiting engine now....


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 3:30 pm 
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I got a ported head of origin unknown along with a Laskey bottom end a few years back. It had a DHR stamp so assumed it was from Dave.
It had the intake ports cut out to hell and back yet little work on the exhaust side.

It's never run long enough to notice the differences and due to epic failure on my part.
Needs a rebuild after some metal spraying and cam cap machining to fix dry running.
It's now matched solely to the cam due to the middle cam cap being over size.
Whilst a new cam could be machined to fit it, the cam is never going in another head.

True machining work of art by a UK company to fix the damage.
Hopefully it wont turn out to be a piece of S*!t when it does eventually run in anger.

BTW, epic thread.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 3:44 pm 
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Polyresin forming new engine mounts too , buy expensive billet mounts?! no thanks more things I picked up off the VAG lot as there mounts are terrible on 1.8T's and this method is much easier to do with the b seires mount design.
you can colour it I used my mounts as an experiment yellow pigment was £6 so I thought I'd give it ago drill cut scrape as much of the soft old rubber out of the old mounts whilst leaving the centre sleeve still in position. I did a pair of prelude mounts for a customer later on in just the natural clear colour and they look much better! oh well you have to try these things. I wanted them as stiff as possible so I used 85A shore stuff which is as hard as it gets before becoming hard plastic. These are solid, If I put a 12" extension bar through them I cant move it bearly there is some kind of cusioning in there but these are stiff... the prelude ones are 65A I think which is the sort of stiffness rating powerflex bushes and companies like them use , superpro use 70A slightly stiffer.. I used a 50A on something somebody was asking for it to be comfy this was ok but I wouldnt recommend going any softer. now that my engine is in and running If you put your hand on the body you can feel the engine vibrate through it. prob a tad too hard tbh :)
you end up with an untidy side where ive used duct tape to seal them and a smooth side, you can peel/pick excess over spill off after.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 4:28 pm 
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engine build pics..... I'll just put all the pics up then go through spec & why it took around a year to get done after!
lol months were wasted as I couldn't get anyone to do what I wanted... or even talk through it with me, properly be interested in what i was trying to achieve. Finnally after all this I have found some local companies that are good do what they say accurately and dont charge F1 team prices :)

As you can see Ive drilled and tapped a fitting further up on the rear of the block on the left, for an extra crankcase breather/will double as a return from the catch can I think when its all plugged in.
Honestly the head & block were cleaned by hand and hot washed twice, it still looks dirty in the pics but they are pretty damn clean. although still couldnt shift that wierd build up in the water jackets its just a light coating not blocking anything or causing an issue I should of had it chemically cleaned or something its, not clinically clean as I'd like but good enough at this point.. and we just couldnt wait any longer to build it the feelings of it'll never be done! were looming again..
here we go.....
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ImageFinally box on bottom end built it was saturday getting dark so sealed up the engine for the weekend and left the head work till next week, dynodaze open for club days every sunday... Oh I wasn't using a whizzy wheel on the block btw, rich was cleaning up the gearbox and painting it in the doorway as a slight oversight we hadnt painted that previously, obvioulsy the whizzy wheel didnt make it back to the toolbox and got dropped on the table next to me whislt he took some pics! haha, must be my job to put everything away ;)

I had done all the research on this double and triplechecked everything , and I seemed to be comming up with a few issues that made the build drag.. I delt with the rods first, they got the lovley arrow precision treatment.. my mate doesnt work there anymore he's moved to a different place so i dont see a problem publically telling everyone how much of their equiptment has been really useful :D They make rods there, so they have all the kit.

I went with using the stock rods with ARP rod bolts as after hours of reading the genereal concensus is that they can take way more power than this build is ever going to make. I personally have seen stock rods dealing with around a bar of boost for well over a year. in a couple of street cars trouble free. I looked into having them shot peened anyway right after my mate had pressed the new pistons on I informed him I wanted them shot peened :D so of they came lol, arrow do that with theirs. also my rods were numbered 2 & 3 in two pairs. Now as we know this is to 'help' you figure out what thickness bigend bearings to use to get the required oil clearence, when comparewith letters etc on the crank and then the block for the mains etc..
WELL MR H the rods were checked for out of roundness & sizing where all 4 came out the same.. Im not talking within any tollerance the same but micron same. my mate ran them 3 times then called the old boy over to check them in case something was wrong. As he didnt think honda would do something like that. well if you can't trust the oem honda specs then we are in the S*!t here lol

here's 2 of the printouts but mid diameter on all of them 46.0164 brilliant,. please Ignore my mad maths scribbling to work out what I was doing with all this info :)
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Im stuggling to remember what size I went for now but anyway some acl's went in there... with the ARP rod bolts that I torqued up many times, I didnt however measure bolt strech on them but after much reading and talking to several other ppl.
I went over the torque specs provided as they are known to be not enough, and I have spoken to someone who's actually had them fail.. So they went up to the generally excepted tightness of which I cant remember now...
Right by dynodaze there are several useful companies. GT motorsports ran by graham who used to build engines at prodrive and now just builds scooby engines for rally part time. The unit at the end is an engineering instrument calibrater with a temp controlled room and some bench mounted equiptment that measures mm down to 7 decimal places.
I used to do a bit of CNC turning etc & have my own micrometers and such not great tho.
I dont have a boregauge well i do now! but The major issue was the crank tunnel...
Firstly I had the idea of just giving the acl race series stock sizes to a company and line boring it all etc so they fitted. but this brings the crank up slightly and nobody with the equiptment to do it seemed to have a clue or want too. trying to argue with me that this isnt how its done and i needed to get thinner bearings or machine the crank. what a nightmere I couldnt get through to them that I was using the thinnest bearings & I was only talking just under half a thou. 1 company decided to tell me it was give or take what I wanted it to be and gave me some measurements, Was it fook, I got it measured by the engineering company that graham uses round the corner then got the tool calibrations guy to borrow some kit off his customers and measure it...
measuring the crank & the block it was coming out tight, too tight! despite the markings on them.. no wonder the coatings had come off the bearings.. even with the thinest bearings I could get its still working out tightish only 0.0005" off what I want tho I couldn't seem to get through to anyone... I wasn't going to let anyone start machining the crank Ive heard nowt but horror stories... anyway got the tunnel honed out the few microns I was after, Its not going to make the shells spin.. eventually. Im quite sure I didnt have to be that anal but now I can sleep at night. Also I didnt want to give up.. englands supposed to be able to do these things why cant we in this country have decent machine shops. maybe there are but they are few and far between!
The ring gaps, gaps are now pretty big stock on hasting's rings apparently due to soo many ppl not checking them and having failures they decided to get around this by having a larger gap. according to what I read so ideally my gaps are all slightly bigger than I had planned but not by much. hence I just gave them a quick checking. results as expected didnt bother struggling with the head bolted down and checking or any of that. all this took loads of time scribbling talking to different places forgetting then re-going over the maths. as remember this was In spare time which we didnt seem to have a lot of kept pretty busy and I work most saturdays and sundays doing shotgun & airsoft too.
Thanks to Arrow precision (not that they know they helped) JDM engineering , GTmotorsports and the guy with the go karts & calibrated tools I got there in the end.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 6:04 pm 
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slaping the head together... seems so easy after that nightmere.
Oh Im testing out a cheap superlight XTC flywheel & clutch kit stage 2 organic I hated the stage 3 thing. In fact they sent me a new ceramic plate so I have spare old pressure plate and new clutch plate. this set up should easy take the b20 nasp power if it does whats claimed. around £250 shipped from the states worth a pop :)
head machined to take stock dowels
oilway blocked off before it was ground.
New LMA's
My skunk2 cams, having been check over for striaghtness and any signs of fatigue!
the slightly softer supertech springset
supertech titanium retainers
Supertech valve guides fitted.
stock other stuff
new gaskets thorough clean & paint with sparkley glitter paint!
stock honda b20 84mm head gasket
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Head on and the rest of the stuff heavyset hose kit etc about ready to go back in !


Last edited by Nail on Tue Mar 25, 2014 8:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 6:33 pm 
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back in! took subframes out and lowered the car onto the engine whilst it sat on the table to avoid scratching anything, Luckly that battery box I sort of measure/guessed was miles out the way of anything :)
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Built it all back up, fluids in etc, I'd turned it over on the bench and new it was good :)
Fired it ran 'abit' lumpy didn't quite sound right switched it of straight away.....

Y'know how I'd said the head was easy after the nightmere with the bottom end right?

Well me and rich pulled faces at each other. decided it wasnt going to come apart based onthe fact it sound not quite right, checked all timing etc fired it again, same , maybe a hint of popping back through the inlet, hmm yes. been here before! compression tested it.

210, 190, 140,100 from 4-1 oh great. & yes it was popping back through the inlet right then head off!

I'd given it to a place in nuneaton over christmas & newyear time to do the valve guides. everyone I really trusted to do it was busy, and this place had recently done some honda build for someone else I'd used them occasionally for stuff but they had made mistakes in the past,.. and with some of the work on our customers VAG heads! The lad there had not been cutting my valves back in properly and hand lapping them he obviously got bored after the 1st one can you tell which end he started at? I went mental... that is just not good enough.... Its ok if they are reconditioning some old rover k series Ive explained to places like this time and time again no mess ups get it right! any probs call me any parts you need or anything amiss call or order new bits. but no its that UK cant be bother it'll be ok attitude.
yes It may have ran or been alright if it was in a 1.1 metro and may have driven around and been fine for its life just down on power. Idiots cost me time , new head gasket , running in oil , coolant and sealer plus had to paint the head again the build was in and spotless now it was covered in oil & messy. the owner then recut them personnally and left them dirty so I could see the contact, tried blaming the guides as being soo off centre, well I'm an engineer mate and they look pretty damn central to me! But how could you mess that up !? well... I think....
What had happend was i had popped in to see how they were getting on and thinking about it, I swear i saw the lad with the seat cutter on my head, without using the guide shaft then hand lapping bored out of his mind. by the time the guy had finished cutting them the valve adjustment is nearing the point at which they wont be able to be lapped again. but its in clearances are good and it all works, & ran fine. up to tempreture and off have drove it round the yard feels great.
Upon compression test its 220 across the board give or take 5psi.

You know what I should've checked it we have a lapping in tool that goes on a drill and hand stuff I would've seen how bad it was before it went on... rich said do want to check them in case he put them in the wrong order or something as we had the valves out and all labelled up in the foam. but I said "no its all good, how can they feck that up?" I mean they had lapped valves in the past for us and done that right. :D Another lesson In double checking other peoples work,.
Trust no one even check your own work! you will be better off for it. I certainly would be.

Battery fits nice there.
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A few things happened after this , the sump gasket weeped, never happend before, I got a few spare ones and new ones in packs so had that off and replaced it new gasket with some sealer sorted.

The gearbox, Its been reconned again (whilst the engine build was going on) as it didn't last long before crunching after the last time tbh prob few years, now running red ATF and I know sounds pikey but I just want to test it.
I now use a local guy, jock @ leicester transmissions (hes cheap and quick seems to know his stuff with old box's), I told him its been done before I used the oil they suggested for what they had put it in syncro-wise and its gone again. I explained the car gets driven hard open it up and put whatever you think it needs in it i want it to be trouble free for as long as possible anyway , he gives me a bill of around 200quid and says its sorted. I asked what he thinks fluid wise i should put in it. bearing in mind its first gone crunchy with MTF then with comma whatever they recommended before too. he says red ATF its thin enough to get round the bearings and can take hi temps in auto box'es its also supposed to be longlife so give it a go its cheap . righto then, I've seen ppl get flamed for suggesting this before & Ive done alot of reading on gear oils. couldnt find anyone reported what had acutally happend using red ATF so I'll report back when I know. Ive drove it round the yard feels smooth fine & is quiet so far!


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 12:09 am 
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You're certainly giving me a run for my money with regards to the amount of colours you've got going on :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 10:38 am 
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cheers mate, the colour scheme has been likened to the he-man toy snake mountain from the 80's
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ALSO... Here's a quick video I just found when I was mapping the b16 at some point...


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 5:15 pm 
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Looks good.

Was that starkeys ee9

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I'm having such a good time..


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 1:10 pm 
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COSWORTH wrote:
Looks good.

Was that starkeys ee9


no mate I had it since 2002 a mate of mine bought it off an EX RAF guy in 99 he had it from new or 1 year old so im 3rd or 4th owner :D


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2015 5:24 pm 
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ok been while big update , some time before now and the last post its had new/reconned 262 MG rear calipers stock rear pads and discs on that seemed to take me ages as I know a guy who deals in calipers and he kept giving me all kinds of wonderful prelude ones for free etc to 'try' that basically wern't quite right. Untill I eventually managed to pay for the ones I asked for in the first place lol. I dropped the suspension back out for something and my radius rod arm broke where it had been welded up, whilst wacking the lca by the ball joint to pop it.. so got traction bar from the states for cheap. I had planed on modding it so it wasnt just using the toe eye bolts anyway but I didnt really get chance to have thick plates made up and after only 300 miles It popped half the captive nuts on the inside of the chassis leg , major problem really didnt need that!

here its next to my old custom orange one you can see where there is no paint we welded it back together just so i could drive the car home etc, altough tbh its got it pretty good!
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heres some pics of cutting into the chassis leg to fix the captive nuts so that they can still be used to anchor the traction bar in multiple places, bit of a pain didnt need tbh but got it sorted.... and had my plates made up and welded it all together so its held with original 4 bolts and the toe eye points.
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^^ in those 2 you can see welding penetration from my battery box in the engine bay if your wondering what that diagonal line is.
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tacked back in place before seeming in,
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coated in some primer etc and had some weld through zinc spay underneath & inside as much as possible
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then shutz over the top for that 'it never happened look' ;)

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had to get 2 little pieces cut out to fill those holes as its right were the new plate is going to get welded onto it! :(
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and finished off in black stone guard with primer underneath.
more hassle than I had planned tbh but at least thats done.

I also got rich to make me some metal brackets welded on and bolted through the bumper to lose those plastic slider clips that dont really hold the front bumper on and allow it to flap a little, I didnt get or save any pics of this being done so will take some next time the bumpers off, but basically pop riveted a curved piece of panel steel to the bumper to act as a strenthener plate & welded off the bolt on bracket replaced the plastic with a matching curved piece welded a captive nut in the centre so they now bolt up in the right place & stay there with my previous under splitter support its very strong and doesnt move at all, so maybe I will actually get some decent aero off that splitter!?

please ignore the rusty wing, paintwork possibly wider arches are this summers jobs maybe after the new house has a double garage built to house Pob & my fireblade!
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Last edited by Nail on Fri Jul 03, 2015 1:45 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2015 5:40 pm 
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New exhaust & mani.... :D
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RMF V2 megaphone header from the states..

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Tahirs 3" system.

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on the car I just used 1 of the slip on decat sections that came with the mani 2.5" and opened it up so it slipped inside the 3" system cut the collector & that 1 bung off the system and got rich to weld it there, using the bolts & flanges that came with the collector it all went on real easy and 'just' fits great!

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Very tight over the ARB & lca close to the chassis and had to tap the lip out the way on the fuel tank but its all clear by 10mm and doesnt move at all or touch anything. welded a hanger off the rear chassis rail & one off the boot floor for the backbox , man that boot floor is thin! but then again I assume they are a pressed sheet and pretty deep, primer & shutz afterwards of course.


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made 10bhp off the bat 219bhp couple of fuel adjustments and 221.
peak power at 8150 cant seem to make anything over that..

put the new rocker on with 2 10AN fittings on and reved it to 9k to see if I was tailing power up there but it seemed to have massive PCV pressure past 8500 its holding power up there just tailing slightly, Ive drilled a load of holes inthe top of the breather box rather than spending a fortune on more filters elbows and welding them on.
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now remember im running a 2 breather lines off the back of the block , the stock rocker & 2 10 AN fittings into that box , its still managed to blow the vtec soliniod gasket , and 2 of the sparkplug tube seals and fill them up with oil! I would've put 4 10AN fittings on the rocker if I thought i was gonna suffer with pressure like this! not really sure where to go from here, any ideas are welcome. its fine upto 8k tbh then its starts to really struggle to breathe. Im not sure why or how im getting that much blow by the things not smoking on wot it does give a puff after wot /run down when you touch the throttle again tho. also Im not getting any oil in the catch can its just vapour at some good pressures, time to sort out my pressure gauges and start measuring it I suppose, I just feels like im missing something and shouldnt be struggling with pressure at 8k tbh cant think what ive missed or done wrong tho.

since it was running rich for some reason at the dyno day I've recalibrated my in car wideband & leaned it out across the map still have a bit of a dead spot at vtec change but im very happy with cruising around 14.7-15 afr now and mid-high 13's on WOT it feels much better just need to get some time back on the rollers and sort the fueling at change-over and see what its doing now and play with the timing. engines now done about 4000 miles.

Im hardly using the car anyway so things are slow going on the ITB front & ive got to fix the washer jets too!


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 4:01 pm 
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Just been for a DB test as a local company I know has a decent tester they race HKS drag series.
got 93db at 3500 rpm & 95 at 5000 rpm. Im still really worried about flyby's and being called off track its soo loud on WOT in vtec & I cant get a bung for that exhaust its a 3.5" rolled right in all the way back tip its a bit weird and seems to have a bit of a taper too, dont want to rework the system too much or put box accross the back too much weight and i plan on making a diffuser setup soon.
I've ordered a 5"x24" 3" bore, weld in middle box (£49 delivered) to replace the 5"x12" 3"bore that's in the center pipe atm. Hopefully with a box double the size in it, should be quieter.
I dont want to loose any power so this is the only option at this stage i think a 6" wide box may be too close to the floor but would prob squeeze in the tunnel , cant be doing with it tapping the floor tho so not risking it!

Oh fixed the leaking washer jet line it was easy 5 mins sorted :)


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 8:10 pm 
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Very nice progress coming along really well


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